• Free shipping to SA metros. Simple setup. Do you need to keep your kitty safe whilst you are out? Cats like climbing; they love being up high. The cat access door slides open and close. It has two hinged access doors for maintenance purposes. Six floating platforms are provided at different levels. The floor to ceiling scratch and climbing pole is an optional extra and must be ordered separately. Approximate Measurements: 136 cm (l) x 64 cm x 204 cm (h)
  • Free shipping to SA metros. Simple setup. Do you need to keep your kitty safe whilst you are out? The free-standing outdoor 'Mini' cat enclosure is our smallest catio. The cat access door slides open and close. It has one hinged access door for maintenance purposes. Three floating platforms are provided at different levels. The floor to ceiling scratch-pole is an optional extra to be ordered separately. Approximate Measurements: 136 cm (l) x 64 cm x 104 cm (h) The 'Mini' Catio can be expanded to our next bigger cat enclosure, the 'Mini Tower'. Cats love vertical spaces.
  • Free shipping to SA metros. Without this chicken feeder, it is almost guaranteed that pigeons in your area will have a feast at your cost. This chicken feeder will pay for itself!
    • WASTE PROOF Chickens are messy feeders and flick aside unwanted food to get to their preferred morsels. The narrow feeding port prevents the spilling of food as only the chickens head fits inside. Once in, the eyesight is limited, and they have to take whatever comes into reach. An added advantage is that your area remains clean and does not attract rodents and flocks of birds, which might be carriers of diseases, lice and mites.
    • RAINPROOF No more soggy feed that goes to waste, but don’t place a garden sprinkler nearby. The feeding ports prevent the intrusion of even heavy rain, but not necessarily from water sprayed sideways as sprinklers do.
    • PIDGEON PROOF Those birds are too short of reaching the feeding ports, and their necks are not long enough to reach the content.
    • RODENT PROOF Mice and rats will not reach the feeding ports, provided you don’t create a platform from where they can get to the feeding ports.
    • WILD BIRD PROOF The tunnel to the food at the bottom is too deep to reach.
    • NO FOOD CONTAMINATION Faeces cannot contaminate the container's contents.
    • SQUIRREL-PROOF? We haven’t found out yet. Please let us know your experience.
     
  • Barn Owl (Tyto alba)
    Owls are especially vulnerable in urban areas as a result of rapid habitat loss and poisonings.
    It is challenging to ‘attract’ owls to your garden. You can, however, provide an owl-friendly environment that might increase the likelihood of wild owls choosing to live nearby.
    Two factors determine whether an owl will remain in an area: food and nesting availability.
    What can you do to help protect Owls?
    1. Don’t use chemical rat poisons that kill down the food chain. If you must use poison, products such as Racumen, which do not cause subsequent animal deaths, are the only ones you should use.
    2. Get an Owl Box and put it up in your garden.
    The ideal location of a Nesting Box:
    • 4 - 6 m above the ground, avoid direct sun.
    • Install the box out of any prevailing wind.
    • Have a clear flight path to the box.
    • Be in a quiet area.
    • Do not attempt to lure owls to the box with food; this will only encourage other animals and deter the owl.
    Nothing rusts on this box, as rust causes wood-rot.
    The wood has been sealed with the best marine-grade wood preserve available.
    Radical Raptors, Bird of Prey Rehabilitation & Awareness Centre have approved the design of this nesting box.
    GardenStuff also stocks Nesting Boxes for the common Spotted Eagle Owl.
    References:
    Cape Town Green Map
    www.africanraptor.co.za
  • The only commercial bee hotel of its kind in South Africa that prevents rain from flooding the chambers, drowning its occupants! Free shipping to SA metros! This is our contribution to help to save our bees. 🐝 Did you know? Most South Africans are unaware that there are over 1.000 known species of bees in our country (and about 20.000 species worldwide). In South Africa, the bee abundance and diversity are dwindling, hence the need to lend a helping hand. It is a well-known fact that bee pollination is essential for fruit, vegetable and seed development. Without bees, the agricultural industry would collapse, and the human race would be in serious trouble. Only a very few species of bees live in colonies and make honey; they are the well-known honey bees and the Mopani bees. The vast majority of bees in our country are 'solitary bees' (Hymenoptera) because they make individual nest cells for their larvae. Many solitary bees are tiny, and you may not realise they are bees. Solitary bees are far more efficient pollinators than honey bees. Solitary bees are harmless and not aggressive. They are either stingless or doubtful to sting, making them safe around children and pets. Solitary bees usually create nests in hollow reeds, twigs or holes in wood. GardenStuff's bee hotels provide these desperately needed nesting hollows for them. 🐝 What is a Bee Hotel? It is a human-made object that offers Solitary bees a home where they can rest and breed safely. A bee hotel will not attract honey bees. Honey bees require different nesting structures. A bee hotel is a bee's permanent home for eleven months of its short life as it develops from an egg through a larvae stage, then as a dormant pupa, and finally emerges as an adult. To enjoy the hotel and all of the activity, hang it at eye level or lower if the children want to get involved. Find a dry spot in dappled sunlight, a bright, shaded area or in an area that only receives early morning sunlight (not direct sunlight as that will be too hot). Hang it where you can see it and enjoy it. Take pride in knowing that you are making a valuable contribution to the protection and conservation of our bees. 🐝 What is happening inside the Bee Hotel? Most of the pollen and nectar that bees gather visiting flowers in the gardens feed their larvae. This is the main feeding stage of developing bees as they do not grow more significant once they emerge from the pupa. Adult bees ingest only small quantities as food. One can take a close peep at the tunnels to see what's going on inside. Don't worry, Solitary bees will not come out and attack. 🐝 Where to put your Bee Hotel? One should not position the bee house in the permanent shade and not in the continuous sun. Solitary bees are cold-blooded and rely on the sun's heat to warm them up in the morning. It is unlikely to be used if you site your bee hotel in the shade or hidden behind thick vegetation. One should firmly fix a bee house so that it does not swing or sway in the wind, so you should not hang it from a branch. If possible, find a spot that has some protection from the rain. Endless winter wet, not cold is their enemy. 🐝 Will any Bee Hotel do? In the light of public concern about sudden bee declines as reported in the media, many horticultural suppliers are now offering commercially made wooden bee houses (also called condos or bee traps). Sadly many of them are inadequate for several possible reasons:
    • Many bee hotels are ornamental rather than functional, designed to appeal to human aesthetics more than being beneficial to solitary bees.
    • They offer insufficient protection from wet weather. Rain floods the chambers, drowning the occupants.
    • The holes are too large because they are made abroad to cater to species that do not live in our country.
    • Tunnels have splinters inside. Bees will avoid those to prevent damage to their wings.
    • Tubes have no solid back wall and are only open-ended wind tunnels.
    • They contain glass or plastic tubes which cause condensation and fungus moulds.
    • Some bee houses are too large. Many bee species will not live near each other. It is better to spread some smaller bee houses around the garden instead of having one big hotel. One should avoid bee houses with dozens of chambers as parasitic insects and mites easily prey on more significant numbers of solitary bees living close by.
    • Some bee hotels are made of plywood, chipboard, particleboard, plastic or cardboard. Those are not suitable.
    • Many bee houses are made to hang from a branch or hook and cannot be firmly attached. Bees do not like swinging nests.
    Acknowledgements: We are grateful to the apiculturist's Marc Carlton and Michael Hickman for the information that we have used for this article.
  • Collect your pre-ordered ‘Bee Support Kit’ from our factory and receive four bags (80 dm) of ‘Organic Container Potting Soil (PTS) for the bee garden for free. The 'Bee Support Kit' contents descriptions are listed below. 🐝 Did you know? Most South Africans are unaware that there are over 1.000 known species of bees in our country (and about 20.000 species worldwide). In South Africa, the bee abundance and diversity is dwindling, hence the need for us to lend a helping hand. It is a well-known fact that bee pollination is essential for fruit, vegetable and seed development. Without bees, the agricultural industry would collapse, and the human race would be in serious trouble. Only a few bees live in colonies and make honey; they are the well-known honey bees and the Mopani bees. The vast majority of bees in our country are called ‘solitary bees’ (Hymenoptera) because they make individual nest cells for their larvae. Many solitary bees are tiny, and you may not have realised they are bees. Solitary bees are far more efficient pollinators than honey bees. Solitary bees are harmless and not aggressive. They are either stingless or very unlikely to sting, making them safe around children and pets. Solitary bees usually create nests in hollow reeds, twigs or holes in wood. GardenStuff’s bee hotels provide these desperately needed nesting hollows for them. 🐝 What is a Bee Hotel? It is a human-made object that offers Solitary bees a home to rest and breed in safety. A bee hotel will not attract honey bees. Honey bees require different nesting structures. A bee hotel is a bee’s permanent home for eleven months of its short life as it develops from an egg through a larvae stage, then as a dormant pupa, and finally emerges as an adult. To enjoy the hotel and all of the activity, hang it at eye level or lower if the children would like to get involved. Find a dry spot in dappled sunlight, a bright, shaded area, or an area that only receives early morning sunlight (not direct sunlight as that will be too hot). Hang it where you can see it and enjoy it. Take pride in knowing that you are making a valuable contribution to the protection and conservation of our bees. 🐝 What is happening inside the Bee Hotel? Most of the pollen and nectar that bees gather is to feed their larvae. This is the main feeding stage of developing bees as they do not grow larger once they emerge from the pupa. Adult bees ingest only small quantities as food. One can take a close peep at the tunnels to see what's going on inside. Don’t worry, Solitary bees will not come out and attack. 🐝 Where to put your Bee Hotel? The bee house must be positioned out of permanent shade and out of continuous sun. Solitary bees are cold-blooded and rely on the morning sun’s heat to warm them up. If you place your bee hotel in the shade or hidden behind vegetation, it is unlikely to be used. A bee house must be firmly fixed to not swing or sway in the wind, so you should not hang it from a branch. If possible, find a spot that has some protection from the rain. Persistent winter wet, not cold, is their enemy. 🐝 Will any Bee Hotel do? In the light of public concern about sudden bee declines as reported in the media, many horticultural suppliers are now offering commercially made wooden bee houses (also called condos or bee traps). Sadly many of them are inadequate for several possible reasons:
    • Many bee hotels are ornamental rather than functional, designed to appeal to human aesthetics more than being beneficial to solitary bees
    • They offer insufficient protection from wet weather
    • The holes are too large because they are made abroad to cater to species that do not live here
    • Tunnels have splinters inside. Bees will avoid those to prevent damage to their wings
    • Tubes have no solid back wall and are only open-ended wind tunnels
    • They contain glass or plastic tubes which cause condensation and fungus moulds
    • Some bee houses are too large. Many bee species will not live near each other. It is better to spread some smaller bee houses around the garden instead of having one big house
    • Some bee hotels are made of plywood, chipboard, particleboard, plastic or cardboard. Those are not suitable.
    • Many bee houses are made to hang from a branch or hook and cannot be firmly fixed. Bees do not like swinging nests.
    CONTENTS:
    • BEE HOTEL
    • BEE GARDEN Slots together in seconds, no tools required
    • BEE FLOWERS SEED MIX Kirchhoff's Heir Loom 'Colour Patch' Winter Dwarf or Summer Splendour (seasonal)
    • ORGANIC FLOWER FERTILISER It will not kill worms or microbes in the soil.
    • VOLCANIC ROCK DUST 72+ minerals and trace elements for healthy and productive soil
    • DRINKING STATION Stainless steel jar with 50 glass marbles (to prevent common drowning)
    Acknowledgements: I am grateful to the apiculturist's Marc Carlton and Michael Hickman for the information that we have used for this article.
  • Out of stock
    Discover what birds frequent your area. Please Note:
    Neither birds nor people do well on a diet of just bread and water. They need a balanced diet. Occasionally putting out some bread for the birds is not harmful. Please do not offer mouldy food.
  • Free Shipping! This floor to ceiling scratch post and climbing pole has been designed to fit the 'Mini' Catio model only. The product is not suitable for use without the 'Mini Tower' cat enclosure.
  • Free Shipping! This floor to ceiling scratch post and climbing pole has been designed to fit the 'Mini Tower' Catio model only. The product is not suitable for use without the 'Mini Tower' cat enclosure.
  • Chicken Coop ‘Cluckingham Palace’

    R16,897.00
    Use Case: The 'Cluckingham Palace' is ideal for sleeping up to twelve average-sized chickens that need to have the safety of a chicken run occasionally. If an attached chicken run is not required, the 'Waldorf Eggstoria' might interest you. Should you prefer a chicken run that you can walk into, consider 'The Eggsquisite.' The 'Kardashi-Hens' might be sufficient if you have six or fewer hens. Technical Details: Please scroll down for measurements, features and an intro video. Delivery: We courier this coop flat-packed to SA metros at no charge. The re-assembly is straightforward and done by one person in 60 - 90 minutes. The last step requires one assistant to drop on the roof. No extra tools and no DIY expertise is required. We deliver and set up in Cape Town and its immediate surroundings at no cost. Description: The 'Cluckingham Palace' is the right choice if you have more than six chickens that need to be confined temporarily and safely in the fully enclosed chicken run. If a chicken run is unnecessary, the 'Waldorf Eggstoria' model might be a better and cheaper selection. The large hen-house comfortably sleeps up to twelve average chickens on four elevated roosts. Some hens prefer to sleep in the egg box instead, and a nesting box access blocker can do this if you wish to prevent this. While the chickens roost, their poop will land in two droppings trays below. It is such an easy job to keep the hen house clean. Pull out the trays and scrape the droppings off with a spatula stored inside the eggbox. The poop is a superb addition to the compost. The egg box contains four differently sized nesting compartments. Hens have not only personalities but also their individual preferences. Some want tight spaces, and others need room, so here they have options. Up to seven hens share one nest, but the average is three birds to one nest. There is no congestion as they lay their eggs at different times during the day. Egg collection is a breeze. Just lift the lid, hook it to the roof, and have both hands free. Drop in the nesting box access blocker to keep the chickens away from the nests while you are busy. You can reach every spot in the hen-house without effort. A hinged maintenance door is on both sides above the droppings trays, and the robust barrel locks can be padlocked if wanted. The 'Cluckingham Palace' has been designed to not overheat in full sun. Cool air draws into the henhouse from underneath, rises as it warms and exits through hidden ventilation slots in the roof. The henhouse rests on a sturdy base that has been CCA pressure treated. This treatment allows survival for years without much deterioration, even if placed in mud. We construct the chicken run with the same material, requiring no maintenance. All our chicken coops are on those elevated bases for two reasons. One is to provide a shady spot and offer rain protection to the girls. The second reason is rodents, should you be so unfortunate to have those around. The elevation keeps mice and rats out of the henhouse as there is no entry point from underneath. In addition, you could close the chicken access door and even unhook the ladder to fortify the palace. The most effective prevention of attracting rodents to your coop is to have no food within reach. We highly recommend our 'No Waste' Chicken Feeder for this purpose. The 'Cluckingham Palace' is good to sleep up to twelve chickens, but that does not mean that so many birds should remain inside the chicken run permanently. The run is supposed to be a temporary holding pen only. However, we can enlarge the run to any size you deem fit. If you look closely at the pictured chicken run, you might notice that it consists of three sections. We can add any number of segments to arrive at a size that you like. The standard chicken run has two access doors for maintenance purposes. A small sliding door through which chickens can leave and return is a nifty optional extra. No larger animal will be able to get through, so the chicken run turns into a safe sanctuary for your hens if they need to get away from something. You, of course, can open and close the door as you please. This door is handy for letting the flock out in the morning and locking them up for the night. You will notice that we stay away from the customary chicken wire for many reasons. Instead, we use a robust, maintenance-free plastic mesh. It is costly but looks better and lasts a lifetime without changing its appearance. Additional Information: Are you a prospective owner? New to raising chickens? Here is a clickable link to our free guide for the care of pet chickens that covers all the basics: Keeping Chicken 101 Need to chat? Call Uli 071 - 245 1658 https://youtu.be/jyWM-KwMyF0
  • Scam alert issued by GardenStuff! Someone in South Africa defrauded many by using a professional-looking but fake chicken coop website. The fraudster's website is an exact copy from a legitimate merchant in Australia. Use Case: The 'Ikhaya' is ideal for sleeping up to two normal-sized chickens. If you have more than two free-roaming hens, consider the 'Villa'. Technical Details: Please scroll down for measurements, features and an intro video. Delivery: We courier this coop flat-packed to SA metros at no charge. The re-assembly is straightforward and done by one person in ±30 minutes. No extra tools and no DIY expertise is required. We deliver in Cape Town and its immediate surroundings at no cost. Description: The 'Ikhaya' is ideal if you have only two chickens that roam freely during the day. Inside the hen-house is an elevated roosting pole for two chickens to sleep comfortably. The egg nest is on a platform that slots in place and can be stored inside the coop if not needed. This feature makes cleaning super easy. Up to three chickens share one nest as they lay their eggs at different times. Access into the hen-house is easy by just lifting off the roof. The coop is designed to stand in full sun without overheating. Cool air draws in through the ventilation gaps in the floor, and heated air escapes through the ventilation channel underneath the roof. All droppings in the hen-house fall onto a sliding tray. Once again, problem-free and super quick cleaning. The coop rests on an elevated base so no unwanted animals can enter. The sturdy, hinged chicken door has a barrel lock for added security. The chicken ladder is on hooks so that you can remove it. Features: - The material is solid pine throughout, treated with a marine-grade wood sealer, galvanised bolts and rust-resistant screws. - A ventilation channel under the lift-off roof prevents over-heating. - The hinged entrance door has a barrel lock for added security. - The elevated roosting pole is removable. - The nesting platform unhooks and, therefore super easy to clean. - The droppings tray slides out for cleaning. - One can unhook the chicken ladder. - The framed window is secure with 3 mm thick plexiglass. - The roof is slightly pitched and can be lifted off to gain access. - The chicken door aperture is 30 cm x 19.5 cm, big enough for standard sized chickens. - You can choose one of three design themes for the chicken door (plain, SA flag or a chick ornament). Additional Information: Are you a prospective chicken owner? New to keeping chicken? Here is a clickable link to our free guide for the care of pet chickens that covers all the basics: Keeping Chicken 101 Need to chat? Call Uli 071 – 245 1658 https://youtu.be/JdrCsap0pNQ
  • Chicken Coop ‘Nkandla XL’

    R10,499.00
    Use Case: The 'Nkandla XL' is ideal for sleeping up to six average-sized chickens that occasionally require the security of a small chicken run. If you wish to move the coop, the mobile 'Tractor' model is your choice. If an attached chicken run is not required, the 'Villa' might be better suited. If you want a more spacious chicken run, the 'Kardashi-Hens' is ideal. If you have more than six chickens, consider the 'Cluckingham Palace'. Technical Details: Please scroll down for measurements, features and an intro video. Delivery: We courier this coop flat-packed to SA metros at no charge. The re-assembly is straightforward and done by one person in 45 to 60 minutes. No extra tools and no DIY expertise is required. We deliver and set up in Cape Town and its immediate surroundings at no cost. Description: Hen House: There are two roosts of slightly different thicknesses. Some hens believe that thicker is better; others disagree. There is enough space for three average-sized chickens to sleep comfortably on each perch. Their nightly droppings end up in the cleaning tray below, which you can pull out and empty. It is gold for your compost heap if you have one. Keeping the coop clean is a breeze. Egg Box: A more rewarding task is retrieving their other gold, the eggs. On average, three hens share one nest, but it can even be seven birds. Of course, the ladies don't squeeze in there simultaneously; they lay their eggs at different times of the day. Again, the sizes of the two nesting compartments differ as some hens prefer space, and others want it tight, so here they have options too. If you want to deny the hens access to the eggbox, you can do so with a blocker panel. Reasons could be that you want to prevent hens from becoming broody or don't like them to sleep in the egg box. Another handy tool is a poop scraper, which helps clean the droppings tray and the nests. Chicken Access Door: The chickens enter the hen-house over a detachable ladder and a lockable sliding door. With the Nkandla, there is no need for you to open and close this door mornings and evenings unless you want to. Chickens do their own thing anyway and enter and leave when it's time. Chicken Run: The chicken run should be a temporary holding pen only; it is not a permanent enclosure for so many chickens. If you need to keep them inside for more extended periods, you might want to have a look at the Kardashi-Hens chicken coop. The hen-house is like the Nkandla's, but the chicken run is double the size. We assemble our chicken runs with modular components. Here we have three modules. If you have a different chicken run size in mind than our standard, we can add as many modules as you want. On the other hand, if you don't need a chicken run, the Villa model is probably a better and cheaper option. Construction Materials: A top-quality chicken coop cannot be built for cheap, especially if it has to be of good service for many years. We don't cut corners by using inferior or inexpensive materials. It has to be the best materials available to us in South Africa. The same applies to construction methods. For example, we use a modern joinery technique from the US that is barely known here. For the Chicken Run: We don't use the standard chicken wire for any of our chicken runs as it rusts, turns brittle and unsightly and becomes a danger for chickens and children. Instead, we use a much better-looking, robust plastic mesh that will not change its appearance in our lifetime. The hinges are stainless steel, the bolts galvanised, and the screws zink coated and rust-resistant. The material for the framework of the chicken run and the base of the hen-house is CCA pressure-treated pine, and it can stand even in mud for years without deteriorating much. For the Hen-House: The hen-house is made with solid pine, not with particleboard or plywood. We treat the pine with the top marine-grade timber sealer available on the market, the same stuff used for oceangoing wooden yachts. The manufacturer recommends three coats; we apply four. A few optional extras are available for this chicken coop that you might find practical, and you will find them on this page. Additional Information: Are you a prospective owner? New to raising chickens? Here is a clickable link to our free guide for the care of pet chickens that covers all the basics: Keeping Chicken 101 Need to chat? Call Uli 071 - 245 1658

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